Naoshima. Dominic Whisson

Within the coronary heart of the Seto Inland Sea, between the Japanese islands of Honshū, Shikoku and Kyūshū, is Naoshima, a small island neighborhood well-known for its artwork and structure.

Naoshima is just accessible by boat or ferry, and upon arrival, you’ll discover artwork sculptures and installations within the museums in addition to each nook of the encompassing tiny villages, sandy seashores and inexperienced hillsides, from artists together with Claude Monet, James Turrell, Walter De Maria and Yayoi Kusama. Even when modern artwork isn’t the primary drive behind your journey adventures, Naoshima, together with the neighboring island of Teshima, presents a transformative expertise for individuals who go to.

Reaching these islands from Tokyo or Osaka can really feel like a pilgrimage in itself, and when you’ve arrived, there are a number of concerns to bear in mind. Whereas attending to Naoshima is unquestionably a trek, it’s properly well worth the journey. Right here’s every little thing you have to learn about exploring Japan’s well-known artwork islands.

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Naoshima
Naoshima. Dominic Whisson

The right way to get to Naoshima

The least demanding strategy to attain Naoshima is from Osaka, though the journey nonetheless requires a number of trains and a ship. From the Osaka airport, head to Shin-Osaka station, after which take the Shinkansen high-speed practice line to Okayama. From there, you’ll board one other practice to Uno, a small city on the sting of the Seto Inland Sea. It’s a fast stroll to Uno Port, the place there are common automobile and passenger ferries to Naoshima’s two ports, Miyanoura and Honmura. It’s additionally doable to journey to Uno from Tokyo, additionally by way of the Shinkansen high-speed trains, which cross by Kyoto and Osaka on the best way.

Naoshima can also be accessible by way of Takamatsu, a port metropolis on Shikoku Island, positioned on the southern fringe of the coast. These ferries run from Takamatsu Port, and are additionally accessible as passenger or automobile choices. Take observe that tickets for all ferries should be bought with money, so be sure you’re ready beforehand.

Worldwide vacationers ought to get a Japan Rail Go, which permits journey on most Japan Rail trains, with out having to buy a selected ticket for every journey. It’s greatest to order seats prematurely, particularly if in case you have bigger baggage, as these trains are inclined to get crowded, and much more so throughout the spring and summer time.

Benesse House Museum in Naoshima
Benesse Home Museum. Dominic Whisson

The place to remain in Naoshima 

There are a number of totally different lodging choices on the island, however Benesse Home, a mix museum and resort, is a standout. Designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Benesse Home boasts an intensive assortment of paintings, that includes items by Claude Monet, Bruce Nauman, James Turrell, Yayoi Kusama and plenty of others. One of many principal advantages of staying at Benesse Home is entry to the museums, together with exterior of the common hours of operation, along with the free shuttle buses, that are helpful for getting across the island. The resort’s personal drivers may even take you to and from the ferry.

Benesse House
Benesse Home. Dominic Whisson

The resort consists of 4 distinct buildings; Oval, Museum, Seashore and Park. Park and Seashore are adjoining to the ocean, for people who desire a picturesque view, whereas Museum additionally homes most of the artwork items, for people who desire a actually immersive expertise. Every room options authentic paintings as a substitute of a TV. It’s undoubtedly a splurge; room charges fluctuate by constructing and kind, however for the smallest lodging throughout the off season, start at round $200 per night time, although the extra deluxe rooms within the excessive season will price you over $960 an evening.

There are additionally different resort options, each in Miyanoura and Honmura. Many of those are small visitor homes, however a number of newer spots have opened inside the previous few years, together with My Lodge Naoshima and Wright Model. If you wish to expertise a luxurious ryokan (a sort of conventional Japanese Inn), attempt Naoshima Ryokan Roka, which opened in 2022. Examine with the resort beforehand to see if they’ve any in-house transportation choices to navigate across the island; in any other case, you’ll must take native buses, or hire a motorcycle or automobile to get round.

Yayoi Kusama's famous yellow pumpkin in Naoshima.
Yayoi Kusama’s well-known yellow pumpkin. Dominic Whisson

What to do in Naoshima

If it’s your first time visiting Naoshima, allot no less than two days to your keep. There’s a lot to see in Naoshima, with a number of museums and artwork experiences all through the island, in addition to quite a few sculptures and installations. Essentially the most well-known is definitely Kusama’s iconic yellow pumpkin, which sits on the finish of a pier—the unique was truly broken throughout a hurricane, however has since been changed. One other of Kusama’s iconic pumpkins is located close to the port, alongside the ferry terminal.

Bruce Nauman at Benesse House Museum.
Bruce Nauman at Benesse Home Museum. Dominic Whisson

The Chichu Artwork Museum is a spotlight; one room is full of Monet’s well-known water lily work, along with a number of Turrell items. In case you go to on Friday or Saturday, e book the Evening Program, with a viewing of Turrell’s “Open Sky” at sundown. The Lee Ufan Museum, a collaboration between Ufan and Ando, is positioned close by, along with the model new Valley Gallery. Down the hill, the Benesse Home Museum is understood for Nauman’s neon gentle sculpture.

In Honmura village, the Ando Museum and the Artwork Home Challenge are value a go to, as is The Naoshima Plan. Close to the port, some intrepid vacationers cease by the eclectic Shinro Ohtake-designed bathhouse, titled “I♥︎湯,” the place guests pays a payment and head inside for a soak.

It’s not simply concerning the artwork, although, as Naoshima’s seashores are a dream for scenic walks, in addition to swimming throughout the hotter months. There are a number of espresso retailers and cafes in Honmura and Miyanoura, though the hours of operation are usually restricted. Hifumiyo Espresso in Honmura is ideal for a latte, and for lunch, attempt the fish burger at Mai Mai, or the curry at Kon’nichiwa. For a candy deal with, cease at Naoshima Gelato, the place the orange milk ice cream is produced from oranges grown proper within the adjoining yard.

Night actions will be trickier, as bus schedules are considerably restricted (the hours fluctuate, so verify the native timetable beforehand), and most of the eating places shut by 8 pm or 9 pm. Benesse Home is residence to 2 advantageous eating eating places (one French and one Japanese), however for extra informal meals choices, take a look at Raumen Tsumu, Luke’s Pizza and Grill or New Olympia. Naoshima isn’t a serious nightlife vacation spot, however you may discover a bar or two open in Miyanoura.

Teshima Art Museum in Teshima, Japan
Teshima Artwork Museum. Dominic Whisson

The right way to plan a visit to Teshima

Whereas most individuals base themselves on Naoshima and plan a day journey to Teshima, it’s doable to spend an evening or two on the extra sparsely-populated island. Ferries run 3 times a day from Miyanoura to Teshima’s Ieura Port (plan based on the restricted schedule), or you may go straight to Teshima from Uno or Takamatsu. The passenger ferry takes about 25 minutes from Naoshima (once more, pay with money) and drops you off in small village by the port. From there, you may stroll, hire a motorcycle or automobile, or hop on a public bus to discover the island.

The principle draw on Teshima is the Teshima Artwork Museum, which should be booked prematurely. The indoor-outdoor house, designed by artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa, combines structure and nature, and is a really particular expertise. Elsewhere on the island, you’ll discover varied different artistic endeavors and installations, together with Christian Boltanski’s “Les Archives du Cœur,” the Teshima Yokoo Home, the Needle Manufacturing facility and Mariko Mori’s “Tom Na H-iu.”

Although there aren’t a ton of individuals or buildings on Teshima, the island is considerably unfold out; it’s about an hour-long stroll from the port to the Teshima Artwork Museum, and most of the websites are located all through the encompassing coastal areas. It’s lots to see in sooner or later, so these with house of their itineraries may at all times e book an in a single day keep on the island. The just lately opened Teshima Espoir Park Inn is a recent resort with sea views and an awesome eating spot, Umi No Restaurant, proper throughout the road. And earlier than you permit, undoubtedly cease on the store contained in the port constructing, the place you’ll can  native ice cream flavors like olive and Setouchi lemon.

Exploring Japan’s Art Islands: A Guide to Naoshima and Teshima

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