Once I arrived in Seoul for a month-long journey final autumn, I may really feel right away that it wasn’t what I’d imagined it’d be. It was even higher. (And that’s not simply because I get to sing and dance to my favourite Okay-pop songs as they blast from each which manner, however it’s undoubtedly a perk.) The South Korean capital affords a dizzying conflict of historical past and modernity, pure landscapes and concrete sprawl, sleepy villages and party-hardy enclaves. The fast-moving ppali ppali tradition urges you to hurry by way of all of it, posing a problem to maintain a gradual tempo. Even within the midst of my monthslong, fourth journey right here this 12 months—my ardour has no bounds (or funds)—I nonetheless really feel like I’ve but to scratch the floor. But powered by a combating spirit and cup after cup of espresso served at designed-for-the-gram cafes, I’m actually attempting to eat, see, and do *all* the issues.
Forward, try my painstakingly chosen selects for best-of-the-best magnificence, bites, websites, retailers, and stays—plus a number of recs that can assist you relaxation and recuperate—to get a considerable style of what the spirited metropolis has to supply.
The place to Keep
Ananti at Gangnam: Need to faux that you just’re on a superyacht however stay on dry land? The five-star Ananti at Gangnam is as luxe and mock-seafaring because it will get, with 81 rooms designed as two-story cabins. The sinuous strains, earthy tones, and opulent textures will go away you feeling like a excessive curler on the excessive seas. Right here, Okay-drama lovers can stay out their chaebol (one-percenter conglomerate) fantasies; simply observe that wealthy and romantic boyfriends aren’t complementary with the room charge.
Hanok Stays in Jongno: For an immersive cultural expertise, keep in a hanok (conventional Korean house), the majority of that are positioned within the central district of Jongno. Lodging vary from primary and shared to modernized and lavish. Keep Folio lists unbelievable properties—hanoks and in any other case—a few of that are unique to the discerningly curated reserving web site. (You may also browse portals like Reserving.com and Agoda, or head to Airbnb and filter your search with the hanok class.)
The place to Eat
Gwangjang Market: Gwangjang Market is among the nation’s oldest and largest conventional markets. A sprawling mecca for road meals, it’s your greatest guess to make sure you’ll get an genuine style of Korean taste. Choose and select from the sights and smells calling your identify… or from the precise shouts thrown your manner from competing distributors vying to your patronage.
Tongin Market: Tongin Market’s lunchbox choice is good for foodies on a mission for culinary exploration, in addition to those that are unfamiliar with Korean delicacies and need to pattern a wide range of Okay-foods. Head upstairs to change 10,000 KRW (~$7.40) for tokens and a lunchbox, then head again down and browse the stalls providing small mains and banchan (facet dishes) beneath this particular menu. I final stuffed up on japchae (stir-fried glass noodles and veggies), pajeon (inexperienced onion pancake), and kimbap (rice and veggie rolls wrapped in dried seaweed), amongst different yummy bites.
Tosokchon Samgyetang: Only a stone’s throw away from Tongin Market is Tosokchon Samgyetang, a revered hen ginseng soup restaurant. There’s often a line to get in—and I don’t do strains—however it’s undoubtedly well worth the comparatively quick wait. Samgyetang is alleged to extend blood circulation and restore your power, each of which can come in useful as you proceed your trek by way of the colourful metropolis.
Myeongdong Kyoja: Myeongdong is a packed vacationer district akin to Hollywood or Instances Sq.. That stated, I usually wouldn’t suggest the pilgrimage beneath any circumstances, however Myeongdong Kyoja—a Michelin-reviewed informal spot with can’t-beat costs of 12,000 KRW (~$8.90) or beneath—is value braving the crowds. They provide solely 4 objects on the menu: kalguksu (knife-cut noodles in hen broth, topped with dumplings and floor meat), pork and veggie mandu (dumplings), bibimguksu (spicy blended noodles), and kongguksu (soy milk noodle soup, which is just on supply from April by way of October). Attempt all of them and thank me later.
Onlygo: Have you ever watched Singles Inferno on Netflix? Although I’ve by no means binged Love Island, I’m satisfied the previous is the latter’s G-rated Korean counterpart. Hand-holds and lingering glances are as racy because it will get, however by some means, it’s nonetheless extremely titillating. Anyway, season one forged member Moon Se-hoon is the good-looking proprietor of Onlygo, a small however stylish eatery in Gangnam’s ritzy Sinsa-dong neighborhood. Their salmon benedict—unfold with onion jam, topped with a runny egg yolk and wasabi, then smothered in thinly shredded cheese—is certainly one of my favourite dishes ever, full cease. They market themselves as “a spot to go solely along with your family members,” which sort of makes it appear uninviting to my norm of solo eating, however I’m a repeat celebration of 1 nonetheless.
The place to Wander
Hanok Villages in Jongno: Jongno is at all times certainly one of my house bases after I go to Seoul. Not solely is it tremendous central and accessible to numerous points of interest by foot, subway, and bus, however it’s additionally house to a excessive focus of charming villages considerable with hanoks transformed into cafes, boutiques, galleries, and the like. You’ll additionally occur upon historic palaces (the grandest being Gyeongbokgung) plus museums for all the things from people music and up to date artwork to kimchi and conventional Korean meals.
Begin in Bukchon, the place native guides stationed on the principle street helpfully present maps and solutions for the historic (and hilly) residential village. From there, head east to Samcheong-dong. Get a sugar rush at Samcheong Bingsu, the place they provide a mountain of the eponymous milk-based shaved ice, earlier than looking boutiques and heading to the Nonfiction retailer for premium physique care and fragrances. You’ll be able to then go south to Insa-dong, a vacationer favourite for crafts and souvenirs. Final however not least, stroll east to Ikseon-dong—which is comparatively beneath the radar however is certainly one of my favourite areas in Seoul—for an compulsory picture sales space session, adopted by espresso and a croffle at certainly one of its many dessert cafes.
Seongsu-dong: Filled with warehouses-turned-hotspots, you possibly can consider Seongsu-dong because the upscale hipster coronary heart of Seoul. Browse the second flooring of Scène, an idea retailer with a rotating collection of wares from native manufacturers, earlier than strolling on the principle drag of Yeonmujang-gil. Exhaust your bank card at Velvet Trunk for premium streetwear from StandAloné and Human Made, at Beaker for informal Western faves like Ganni and Sporty & Wealthy, and at Expensive Dracena for naturally derived bathtub and physique merchandise. A number of blocks away is Seongsu Federal, a small food-and-shopping advanced. Stroll as much as Cheonsang Gaok, a stylish dessert cafe with a glass rooftop and balcony seating.
The place to Get Your Magnificence On
Touring to Seoul and never getting a Okay-beauty therapy is like touring to NYC and never grabbing a slice of pizza. Gangnam—which is mainly the Beverly Hills of Seoul (it even incorporates an space referred to as Apgujeong-rodeo, named after Rodeo Drive)—is the wonder capital of the town and the nation at giant, so think about certainly one of these visits to be a ceremony of passage.
Gangnam Pores and skin Clinics: Seoul’s pores and skin clinics are bustling enterprises, working like factories with little privateness however the utmost effectivity. They’re often not fancy, however they get the job performed—and on a budget, at that. Rotating promotional packages (aka “occasions”) are at all times on supply, plus many worth the remedies at and even beneath price to maintain up with the competitors. (Math isn’t my sturdy swimsuit, however I’m satisfied that in case you fly to Seoul for every week of your go-to’s like Botox, fillers, facials, lasers, and peels, you’ll pay the identical, or possibly even much less, than what you’d in main US cities—with flights and accoms included.)
I’ve visited a handful of English-speaking clinics round Gangnam’s Sinnonhyeon neighborhood: Ppeum not too long ago opened an aesthetically pleasing world outpost; Lienjang has a foreigner-specific part and is widespread on social media; and Muse Clinic is tremendous straightforward to e book last-minute remedies on-line. Higher but, you possibly can choose into consultations to make sure that the remedies you select are proper to your issues.
Shangpree Spa: For one thing a bit extra luxe and personal, head to Shangpree Spa—a mainstay for Seoul’s wealthy and well-known. Shangpree additionally has a fairly priced in-house skincare model, providing merchandise primarily based on shifting pores and skin situations (like heated, cloudy, and desert) that may look nice in your toilet shelf once you get again house.
The place to Get Your Wellness On
Spa Lei: A go to to a jjimjilbang (Korean bathhouse) is one other absolute should for any journey to Korea. Situated within the Sinsa-dong neighborhood of Gangnam, Spa Lei is a 24-hour, women-only, three-story hub to spa and schvitz to your coronary heart’s content material. You’ll be able to pay round 16,000 KRW (~$12) to make use of the amenities alone, which embrace sizzling tubs, a steam room, an infrared sauna, a salt room, rooftop bathtub, and tons extra. Nonetheless, I extremely suggest buying a physique exfoliation and therapeutic massage bundle for about 120,000 KRW (~$88). An ajumma (feminine elder) clad in a bra and panties will scrub, splash, then rub you down from prime to toe. It’s not for the faint of coronary heart (or for the delicate of pores and skin), however you’ll stroll out with pores and skin as easy as a child’s backside.
Hikes in Seoul: If you happen to’re the sort to maintain up along with your exercise routine whereas on trip, department out past the resort health club. There are almost two dozen hikes within the metropolis to select from: Bukhansan is probably the most well-known, and I totally loved Ingwansan and Namsan. (Tip: At Namsan, hike your manner as much as the N Seoul Tower, go to the observatory for a panoramic hen’s eye view of the town, then take the cable automobile down.)
The Move Room Yoga: My fellow yogis will benefit from the Move Room, Seoul’s first totally English-speaking yoga studio, positioned in Itaewon. They provide a various vary of lessons, from ashtanga and hatha to yin and sound baths, in addition to particular occasions each in and out of doors of the studio. I used to be lucky sufficient to catch two stand-up paddle yoga lessons on the Han River, that are amongst probably the most unbelievable journey experiences I’ve logged to this point.
Park Roche Resort & Wellness: If you end up in want of some critical R&R exterior of the town, head two hours east to Park Roche in Jeongseon, Gangwon Province. Geared up with a spa, separate jjimjilbangs for women and men, indoor and out of doors swimming pools, a stargazing deck, cooking lessons, and a full schedule of yoga and meditation lessons (albeit in Korean), the wellness resort has all of the amenities you want to rejuvenate for a number of days.